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Swell Memories by Dermot Whelehan
This article was written a few years back but forever is forever! -Ed.
FOREVER
Surfers recall past events in order to focus on the future.
We remember the last wave we rode, the last surf trip, the last day we ditched work, or skipped a class. We remember these things to enjoy the future...to enjoy the next wave. We think about how wonderful our life has been because we've surfed.
We think about how cleansing the last wave was and what we need to do so we can ride that next wave tomorrow.....and those next waves sometime there after. We cherish the memories of past waves in order to fill the void until we ride our next wave. Think about it for a minute. A perfect example, is the old cliché, “You should have been here yesterday!”
Surfers remember the waves that were...to hope for waves that will be.
I've often been asked how I've managed to surf and stay stoked for so long. I tell them that I can remember the first time I rode a surfboard and that I can still recall those sultry mornings where I'd find myself somewhere along A1A. I even remember the very first time I saw surfers. I can recall the many times I've come home completely spent...every muscle aching from a full day of surfing. I tell people, surfers and non-surfers alike, it's easy to stay stoked when you can remember the endless hours spent in the ocean with friends.
When you remember the morning paddle out into sheet glass surf; the pelicans playing tag with the swell; dolphins surfacing on a crisp winter morning and your friends enjoy all of this with you - it’s impossible not to stay stoked. It's even more impossible to forget. I have remained a surfer this long because I have not forgotten those days when the ocean has given more than any paycheck or job title ever could.
I believe there is a common theme among surfers, particularly those who have been surfing for generations, that makes them continually want to play in the ocean… continually want to surf. Those that have been surfing for decades remember what makes them happy. They remember what took away their blues, what made them laugh, and what washed away the tears brought on by life's challenges. They remember getting excited about a particular wave or a particular day and how that wave or day made them feel.
I watched the video entitled Surfing for Life. Although you might call it a "surf video" there are no barrels, huge waves, or exotic surf spots. The video provides an opportunity for some of surfing's pioneers to relay what has kept them in the water for 40, 50 or even 60 years. Surfers, male and female, who range in age from the 60's to 90’s, describe why they have remained so devoted to the sport and lifestyle.
One of the recurring themes, among many, is these older surfers began there comments with... "I remember when...."
They then would go on to describe spectacular days or events in their surfing life that have kept them in the water. An equally important theme resonating throughout this video is that of friendship. These long time surfers enjoy the camaraderie associated with surfing. They talk about giving and sharing waves. (Something many modern day surfers could learn from!)
When these older surfers spoke their eyes sparkled. As they spoke, their eyes became alive and vibrant - their eyes were a portal into oceans past. You could see in the eyes of these surfers, despite their age and years spent in the sun, their burning desire to surf has never been extinguished.
Home page for Surfing For Life film
Although I don't like to refer to Hollywood's version of surfing and surfers, there is a good scene from the film Big Wednesday. The two little kids (called gremmies then, grommets now) were on the pier talking to Jack (the surfboard shaper) when the kids, referring to the three main characters, say to Jack, "Those guys are so stoked they'll surf forever."
Jack then says, "No one surfs forever."
A neat scene, but as always Hollywood got it wrong.
Surfers can surf forever - all you have to do is sit back and remember. The last time you paddled out will bring you to the next time.
~~~Dermot
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