Swell Memories by Dermot

 

East vs. West Coast ...Who Cares?

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Dermot writes weekly articles for WeAreH2O.Com. An index of articles is at: Swell Memories Index

 

East versus West...Who Cares?


You drive a little faster than you should. You’re a little more anxious as you wait for the light to change. You’ve heard the report and it has been a while since you’ve been in the water. The anticipation and excitement are just too much to bear. You hurriedly park the car, grab your board and run down the path to the beach. The reports were on the mark – its 4’- 6’, slight offshores and a moderate tidal swing. It’s a classic day.

The above description fits just about any beach that takes a decent swell. It could describe any of the following locations: Sebastian, Trestles, 2ndLight, Blacks, Spanish House, or Sunset Cliffs. The above breaks are East and West Coast respectively. Separated by thousands of miles but united by one common thread. Each of those breaks on any good day could be described as classic. Great, perhaps legendary, surfers have ridden each of those breaks.

East versus West, which one is better? As we enter the new millenium it won’t be long before the east versus west discussion will have gone on for almost a 100 years! Certainly this piece of work won’t end the discussion but hopefully just make a few more surfers a little more mature on the issue.

I’ve had the pleasure of surfing the classic breaks of Florida as well as those in Southern California. I’ve spent enough time in California to experience those “Classic California Days” and have spent even more time in Florida (and other spots along the east coast) surfing absolutely magnificent surf in terrific surroundings. OK, that’s great, but which one is better?

Answer, who cares!

That’s right, who cares. If you are consumed by which coast is better then, at least to me, you have missed the whole concept of surfing. As a surfer, when I’m on a wave - that wave, at that moment in time, happens to be the best wave I’ve ever ridden. Doesn’t matter where that wave is. I’ve been surfing for over 35 years and at this point you never know when you’ll ride your last wave. Thus, the last wave I rode is the best wave I’ve ever ridden.

If you believe the west is better and live on the east - then move west. And vice versa. Surely there is no argument the East Coast has produced, and will continue to produce, world class surfers. Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson ended all arguments about the ability of East Coast surfers. One thing east coast surfers should be very proud of (and is often overlooked by the mainstream surfing media) is the very best of East Coast surfers still call their East Coast break home, i.e., Kelly Slater still calls Cocoa Beach home. That fact alone sends a message.

If the ability of the East Coast surfer is no longer in question, then the only one left is which coast has better waves. For me this is easy to answer. I would gladly compare the very best day, say in Florida, to the very best day in San Diego County. Both days would more than likely be equal (actually I’d have to give Florida a slight edge because of the warmer water!). Unfortunately, the very best day(s) in Florida come few and far between whereas those classic days in California are more abundant. There you have it. In terms of quality both coasts are equal. In terms of quantity, the West Coast has more rideable waves per year than the East Coast. I’m sorry, it’s an undeniable fact. But – I go back to my original statement. So What – Who Cares. If where you surf frustrates you – then stop surfing. If you constantly complain about the conditions then you have two choices: move or stop surfing. Because my profession has placed me on the coasts of California, Florida, and the Carolina’s I have enjoyed the waves wherever I was and never complained about what came my way. Enjoying the water, your friends and your environment is what surfing is all about. Who cares from what coast that enjoyment comes from. Lastly, as is often said, the best surfer is the one having the most fun -regardless of where that fun comes from!

-Dermot

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